My second post on my school blog this year will be about my 1st progress report on my project. Actually I finished my design ages ago but apparently just a few minutes ago the urge to finally post this progress report surfaced.
Okay, first of all there are 3 designs that I have to complete for my project. This odd number was agreed by my advisor Ibu Judith and supervisor Bu Neni since to make 1 or 2 costumes simply wont do.
The First Design
Original costume:
Source: http://sanggartari.com/penari-tradisional
This first costume is designed for Bajidor Kahot dance. This dance's genre is called as Balipong. A mixture of balinese dance and jaipong dance from West Java. This dance pictures socialization of young girls and the
happiness during adolescence. The costume itself symbolizes happiness in
bright colors and flowers to symbolize femininity. The pakem (rules) of this costume includes kebaya (preferably made of cotton material) and long skirt (preferably made of jarit or batik clothing. The hair of the dancer should be put up in a bun or sanggul (preferable adorned with flowers or kembang pentul as seen on the picture).
My re-design:
This particular one was a tough one! I redesigned this costume 3 times and this one is the final one. I keep on redesgining it to fit it to the pakem (rules) and making the costume actually possible to be made as well (since the previous designs I made was too crazy).
My first goal on this costume is to show more of the bali side of this dance on the costume. As seen on the original costume, the bali side of this dance is not evidently shown on it's costume. So in my design I used a headdress inspired by legong dance from bali. The headress replaces the plastic flower and kembang pentul. But somehow the headress is another form of the plastic flowers and kembang pentul since although it is inspired by legong headdress in it's structure it has a plastic flower and the color of kembang pentul.
The top part of this costume has the kebaya with one long sleeve and it's strapless kemben (top bustier). The one strap is inspired from pendet dance from bali and it will be made from kain prada bali (hopefully I can find it in Tanah Abang). On top of it all the dancer will wear a belt, another complimentary accessory.
Going on the bottom! The skirt will be a two piece. So, the batik part which I will make by myself at Batik Hadipriyanto, Banyumas (a post on this will come up soon), will be sewn to a sarung and a rubber waistband will be attached to it so it will be a skirt which I can wear as a casual one. And on top of that the dancer will wear a skirt which the peplum will be made of kain prada bali and the long flowy part will be made from probably cotton (katun) or saten in the same color as the bustier.
The Second Design
Original costume:
Source: http://ibuqnan.wordpress.com/tag/menari/
The second dance costume that I will redesign for my project is Alusi Au dance costume. This dance is a traditional creation dance of tor tor from the Batak tribe. Alusi Au symbolizes love. The
word Alusi Au itself means love. The costume symbolizes the province’s culture
through color and pattern of the ulos which is special for marriage or can be
black ulos for dancing. The pakem (rules) for this costume is black ulos for the skirt and selendang (cloth to be put around the neck), kebaya or bustier and the hair to be tied up in a bun.
My re-design:
For this second one the dance was intended to be danced by little kids. So my goal for this costume is to make it more grown up. The head was not very different from the original one. Maybe the slight difference is from the use of red plastic flowers on the sides of the bun (sanggul) and the addition of fake rhinestones on the bandana. Another addition to be noted is the use of earrings and necklace (I will make it using wire jewelry if the plan is going by the gantt chart which currently it does not -cue teardrops-).
The top part of the costume is a red bustier adorned by golden lace and rhine stones that match the bandana. The sleeves will be off the shoulder rimmed in golden lace as well. The puffy sleeves will be made from the same material with the skirt which is sheer black. Under the sheer will be lace that acts as a normal sleeve so that the lace is visible through the see-through puffy material of the sleeve (Confusing I know, it's hard to explain but let's just see how it works out). Oh lets not forget the cloth around the neck made from black cloth rimmed in ulos.
The bottom part of this costume is the exciting part. So the ulos will be wrapped normally as usual in tor tor dances. But on top of it there will be a high-low sheer black skirt. In which the rims will be folded to some sort of pocket filled with red petals (exciting right!).
The Third Design
Original costume:
Zapin Selasih is the pink one
Source: http://freemp3video.net/file/atta-musik-zapin-bungo-cempako-vocal-rita-siak
This third dance is called as Zapin Selasih dance. It is a dance creation from Riau. This dance tells the story of adolesence using the property of a fan. The pakem (rules) in this costume is the use of kain songket, closed (muslim) attire and gadang clothing.
My re-design:
This design has the goal to make the costume more fancy. The complicated part of this costume is the head. The hair will be put up in a bun covered by a long cloth which edges will be adorned with sewn plastic rhinestones. The sides of the bun will be decorated with plastic flowers and on the forehead will be circlet headpiece and a mini suntiang (some sort of crown from Riau originally huge is size covering the whole head).
The main part of the costume is the gadang clothing rimmed with gold lace (the long sleeved top and pants). The shoulders will be covered in lace and the belt will be used to hold up 2 songket of different colors bunched up on the sides forming roses.
That's a wrap!
That is all three costumes that I redesigned. All the dances are creation dances and not the ancient dances because those old dances have their own pakem (ruled) costumes which cannot be redesigned. The creation dance is more of a modern-traditional dance (if that makes sense) which costumes have less pakem and is allowed to be redesigned. However, all the redesigned costumes I made still follows the rules and is under the supervision of the expert for my project so hopefully it's all well.
Thank you for reading this long post! Another post on batik making, Bajidor Kahot headdress making and my goals on this personal project will be posted soon! :)
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